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Old 12-07-2017, 07:43 AM   #1
piper_hm
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Default Troy McAllister reeds

I've heard great things about these reeds - long lasting and free-blowing - but tough to break in. Has anyone had success with these reeds? Any tips for blowing them in?

Cheers!
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:39 PM   #2
magsevenband
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

Based upon the old McAllister design which is legendary...go well in older Naill chanters once broken in...they can be like a stiff new shoe at first...not for the faint of heart or beginners...good luck.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:12 PM   #3
el gaitero
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

Quote:
Originally Posted by piper_hm View Post
I've heard great things about these reeds - long lasting and free-blowing - but tough to break in. Has anyone had success with these reeds? Any tips for blowing them in?

Cheers!
Check out the website for those tips. Whenever Iíve called personally dad or son were willing to chat about it,type chanter etc.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:14 PM   #4
Hagar
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

These are the only reeds I have ever used. I donít know any different mind you so canít compare but they have worked great for me from the start.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:37 AM   #5
Tom MacKenzie
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

Quote:
Originally Posted by piper_hm View Post
but tough to break in. Has anyone had success with these reeds? Any tips for blowing them in?
I have been using Troy-McAllister reeds for over a year now in a new Naill ABW chanter. I can confirm that they are tough to blow initially and I have had to resort to a bridle that I progressively back off as they ease up.

Also I have had to gently scrape from the lips down to get the high hand to balance with the low hand, and as a side affect, make them slightly easier.

I try to set them up to tune between 478 and 480.

The tone off these reeds in this chanter was immediately noticeable. Strong, bold and resonant with the drones. I am enjoying them very much. They are a strong blow but very satisfying.

I have noticed however that James Troy's website is not very responsive these days. I have placed three orders over the last year and there has been no response, and more importantly, no reeds. I have had to resort to buying his reeds from resellers.

tomm
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:23 AM   #6
el gaitero
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom MacKenzie View Post
I have been using Troy-McAllister reeds for over a year now in a new Naill ABW chanter. I can confirm that they are tough to blow initially and I have had to resort to a bridle that I progressively back off as they ease up.

Also I have had to gently scrape from the lips down to get the high hand to balance with the low hand, and as a side affect, make them slightly easier.

I try to set them up to tune between 478 and 480.

The tone off these reeds in this chanter was immediately noticeable. Strong, bold and resonant with the drones. I am enjoying them very much. They are a strong blow but very satisfying.

I have noticed however that James Troy's website is not very responsive these days. I have placed three orders over the last year and there has been no response, and more importantly, no reeds. I have had to resort to buying his reeds from resellers.

tomm
Curious on 3 points....did you try calling them...and were the reeds you ordered /got the original Ď macallisterí style or the newer JWT ( ridge cut ?) design .

What strength?
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:43 AM   #7
Tom MacKenzie
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

I have not telephoned them, as they are in BC, but it something that I should do next I have realized lately.

I ordered medium strength Troy/McAllister molded reeds from Kinnaird, and asked Rob to test them to make sure they were medium strength, and, indeed, that was what was delivered.

They are definitely not the JWT style reeds, nor are they ridge cut.

They initially required a strong blow, but I wanted and expected that, and I then gently eased the reed, using a dental elastic bridle while the reed settled in, and also slight scraping to balance the top hand, to the point where it is now where I am comfortable with it. That has taken eight weeks, three weeks to ease off the bridle, and the last five weeks continuing to balance the top hand with slight scraping. I play for an hour every weekday morning.

tomm
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Last edited by Tom MacKenzie; 12-08-2017 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:18 PM   #8
piper_hm
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

They've been having machine issues at the shop for the last year or so, but are now good to go with new equipment and, in doing so, Jamie tells me they've perfected the ultimate McAllister!
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:15 PM   #9
el gaitero
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom MacKenzie View Post
I have not telephoned them, as they are in BC, but it something that I should do next I have realized lately.

I ordered medium strength Troy/McAllister molded reeds from Kinnaird, and asked Rob to test them to make sure they were medium strength, and, indeed, that was what was delivered.

They are definitely not the JWT style reeds, nor are they ridge cut.

They initially required a strong blow, but I wanted and expected that, and I then gently eased the reed, using a dental elastic bridle while the reed settled in, and also slight scraping to balance the top hand, to the point where it is now where I am comfortable with it. That has taken eight weeks, three weeks to ease off the bridle, and the last five weeks continuing to balance the top hand with slight scraping. I play for an hour every weekday morning.

tomm
For thier standard reed...what was your scrape protocol?

I used macallister and then Troy/macslister reeds from 1970ís thru mid 2000ís...then started trying others...Shepherd,Warnock,Lee,G-1, And several others,.....thinking JWT might be on the horizon again....but Ďeasyí strength next go around.
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:22 PM   #10
Tom MacKenzie
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Default Re: Troy McAllister reeds

I use a sharp blade from a carpet knife, and starting about 2mm from the lips scrape lightly down the blades. To raise the pitch of the entire top hand I follow Chris Apps instructions in his book and scrape in a fingernail type pattern, longer in the center and shorter towards the edges. I do not scrape the voice box. Very lightly and a very very small amount.

To raise the E and D I lightly scrape, starting at 2 mm from the lips and straight down the center of the blades towards the voice box, but not onto the voice box. Again very lightly and a very very small amount.

To ease the overall strength of the reed I scrape along the edges of the voice box.

To fix a crow on high A I use 320 grit sandpaper on a glass table top and very very lightly drag the lips across the sandpaper at about a 30 degree angle on both sides of the blade.

Chris Apps book about manipulating the reed is comprehensive and easy to follow.

tomm
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Last edited by Tom MacKenzie; 12-08-2017 at 08:31 PM.
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