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History, Tradition, Heritage As related to the subjects of piping, drumming and pipe bands.

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Old 05-21-2020, 08:47 PM   #1
M36
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The chanter has RG Hardie on it, and they resemble a set of Hardie's in Ringo's museum of 50's to 60's bagpipes. I thought that this was a 3/4 Hardie, but I am just trying to verify that. I'm not sure.

They are in fairly decent shape and I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to send them off to be cleaned and have the loose ferrules glued back into place and to make them playable.

Eager for your opinions.
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Old 05-22-2020, 06:08 AM   #2
Patrick McLaurin
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There’s no way to tell if they’re 3/4 from those photos. Got a ruler? Another set of pipes to compare them to?

What’s wrong with them that they are currently unplayable? If nothing, I’d say it’s not worth the expense since they’re already playable.
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Old 05-22-2020, 06:11 PM   #3
Pip01
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M36,

They look a fine set!! :) Congratulations!! :)

From the pic's... and to me... they do look like
Hardies... but I can tell pine trees from roses
at a glance... most of the time... :)

Were I in your spot... I would call... and then ship
them off to our fellow member, Ringo, at his spot,
TheBagpipePlace.Com.

Dead accurate identification... superb and hands-on
craftsmanship for a quick refurbishment... and then
back up... to dependable playing, :)

Both your pipes... and your purse... will be well served.

And if you wish... a Certificate of Authenticity & Value...
which is good for insurance... and if you ever wish to
pass them on.

However it may go...

All the Best!!

Pip01


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Last edited by Pip01; 05-22-2020 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 05-22-2020, 07:35 PM   #4
olypiper
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Most people wind a little hemp under the loose ferrules to tighten them up. I have also seen teflon tape, though that would not be my first choice. Thread, even, if you don't need a lot of tightening. Sometimes sets dry out from not being played, so the moisture from playing them regularly can tighten up loose bits. Of course, sending them out to be looked over and repaired by a professional is probably the best choice, it's just that you will be without your pipes until they are finished. Also, it would cost money, as well as time, and hemp or thread is basically free. Any reputable set is always worth repairing. Sometimes people take a catalin mounted set and have them remounted in something a little less pumpkin spice. Some people love the patina of oxidized catalin. I have an old Hardie practice chanter that has turned almost brick red. I really love the look. Let us know what you decide.
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Old 05-23-2020, 10:25 AM   #5
M36
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I spent about four hours yesterday afternoon, stripping off all the old hemp and cleaning things up a little on the drones. I found that a loose projecting mount was threaded and was just loose. Most of the nickel was all loose so after searching here I used some hemp and a little cobblers wax to snug them back up. After a little nickel polishing and a general wiping down they seemed to take on a new life after putting it all back together.

During the wiping I found there are no cracks in any of the drone parts, no air loss, the threaded mount, and that the reed seats are seriously very narrow. All of the reeds I have that would barely fit did not sound good at all but they are old to begin with and probably have bad tongues and bridles. I started working with a small cane reed and got one of the tenors to sound pretty good.

Running around the Internet and comparing them to the other sets I have, they are full sized and I believe they are Hardies flat combing. I found a set online called flat combing and the drone bottoms had the same thread cuts as mine, as well as one photo Ringo has in his museum.

I lightly oiled the drones and wiped them out to keep an eye on them and hopefully get them running without issues.

I need to find some reeds for these and have been researching that but not sure which way to go yet. I'm also contemplating the drone reaming that I found here to accommodate the larger synthetic reeds but I'm still on the fence with that. I am more apt to destroy something than I am to do it right, I would send the bottoms out to have that done.

History wise on these, they were associated with a man in La Mesa, CA. There was the old fashioned black label used in the 80's with his name on it inside the box and some remnants of a label on the outside left an impression of La Mesa. Can't read the rest of it.

Curious to hear the reed suggestions. I have seen Kinnards, Wygents and Omegas and others. I have a set of Omegas I never did much with so they are on the list of ones to try I guess.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:11 AM   #6
Pip01
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M36,

Glad that it has turned out thus for you!! :)

As you mention drone reeds... for the sake
of history and equity... I always preferred *
Mark's (Wygent) reeds... if they're available...
but for my old sets... and having been much
pressed for Time...I had/have settled in with
the original Kinnairds... and find them to be
always dependable... and without fault!! :)

What ever your choosing,

All the Best!!

Pip01




* A Quick Historical Post Script:

First: Now these many years ago... Mark
graciously pulled me out of an extremely
critical and "Time Sensitive" hole when...
and very soon... I was scheduled to play
for a British Consulate... by emergency
drop-shipping a set of his drone reeds
to me. (And, I am ever grateful. :)

Second: He was badly snookered when
someone else in The Piping Game came
by to visit... saw... what he was doing...
and as Mark had yet to even apply for
any sort of patent protection... this visitor
took this seen knowledge back to his
shop... and so began producing "his" very
own... knockoffs. :(

The rest... as they say... is History... :(




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Last edited by Pip01; 05-23-2020 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:09 PM   #7
Patrick McLaurin
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I have only done the following with synthetic smallpipe drone reeds, but you might consider replacing the reed’s tenon with brass tubing of the same ID as the reed body. Brass tubing could be narrow enough to fit.

Saw off the reed’s tenon, measure the ID of the reed, get brass tube of correct ID and cut to length, drill out reed body at OD of brass tube, insert brass tube and voila!

Of course you’d want to make sure the OD of the brass tube fit the drone’s reed seat.
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