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Simply accepting wet blowing?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Jim Fogelman View Post
    One thing that, I think, has helped the lifespan of my bag is not letting it it dry out too quickly between play sessions.

    When I’m done playing, I take the split stock apart and cork off the split stock opening and the chanter stock, take the tenor tops off and the bass mid and top off, and put the bag and drone bottoms (still in the stocks) in a large garbage bag.
    Interesting technique! Have you ever tried just putting a humidifier in your case instead?

    Played for an hour today with the tube and trap-dri, had wet drones and while the chanter fared better, there was still a fair amount of condensation around the reed, and the tone was starting to suffer. I think it's time to bite the bullet and go full sheepskin.
    www.nybagpipes.com

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    • #17
      Originally posted by iunderwood View Post

      . I think it's time to bite the bullet and go full sheepskin
      .
      I m curious....where in USA do you live? ..only cuz IMHO a sheep bag is overkill in so many places.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by el gaitero View Post

        I m curious....where in USA do you live? ..only cuz IMHO a sheep bag is overkill in so many places.
        That may well be. We also must factor in changing conditions, such as indoor (e.g., long blows on St. Patrick's Day) vs outdoors. In the NW, we have a very wet winter, then very dry (and sometimes hot with little humidity) in summer, sometimes necessitating adding a bit of water to the bag. I don't have a moisture control system in my Gannaway; but those long indoor blows do challenge the issue.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by el gaitero View Post

          The amount of moisture a moose valve collects as a ‘trap’ is almost negligible...the height of the unit above the expanded collar is only ~1/2”...and the void around the moose body and stock sidewall is ~1/8”...so overall there’s barely any room for any meaningful amount of liquid to collect...and much of whatever might... will easily slop over the crest and be blown into the bag.
          I'm not faulting your reasoning, but I can say that my experience is different. I play a moose valve with a split-stock and tube trap (same setup in two different sets). The moose valve captures a significant amount of liquid, which I pour off after every other set or so. What makes it past the moose valve gets trapped in the tube, but that amount is usually negligible.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by el gaitero View Post

            I m curious....where in USA do you live? ..only cuz IMHO a sheep bag is overkill in so many places.
            Connecticut. It's generally quite humid here. And maybe it is overkill, but I think it would slam the door shut on my problem. Going with another Gannaway could well be sufficient, but at this point I kind of see it as a half-measure.

            edit: I also generally try to play until I'm exhausted, or my reeds shut off. Right now, with Canmore and trap-dri tube, drone reeds shut off at about an hour. I want to be able to get a lot more time before I overwhelm the reeds.
            Last edited by iunderwood; 09-10-2021, 08:28 AM.
            www.nybagpipes.com

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Raibeart View Post

              I'm not faulting your reasoning, but I can say that my experience is different. I play a moose valve with a split-stock and tube trap (same setup in two different sets). The moose valve captures a significant amount of liquid, which I pour off after every other set or so. What makes it past the moose valve gets trapped in the tube, but that amount is usually negligible.
              My experience, too, is that the Moose valve traps a significant amount of moisture. It is the only moisture control I need with my Canmore hybrid bags. I have tried tube traps in the past, mostly with Bannatyne bags, and have found them generally not as effective as the Moose valve. With moisture control, I would say that there is no one size fits all. Pipers are individuals and their needs and experiences are different.
              Ian
              http://www.thepipersden.net

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              • #22
                Originally posted by iunderwood View Post

                Connecticut. It's generally quite humid here. And maybe it is overkill, but I think it would slam the door shut on my problem. Going with another Gannaway could well be sufficient, but at this point I kind of see it as a half-measure.

                edit: I also generally try to play until I'm exhausted, or my reeds shut off. Right now, with Canmore and trap-dri tube, drone reeds shut off at about an hour. I want to be able to get a lot more time before I overwhelm the reeds.
                It sounds to me, from your location and the way you play, that sheepskin would be perfect. But I was also intrigued with W. MacKenzie's earlier reference to the L & S Goatskin, which sounds like it might be a good compromise.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by acadianpiper View Post

                  .... the Moose valve traps a significant amount of moisture.

                  t.
                  Where???....there’s almost no space volume around the Moose...even if leaving the insert riser in place.

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                  • #24
                    Hagen pipe bags makes a cow leather that is supposed to have the same qualities of sheep. Good price too

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                    • #25
                      Ok, so....I'm also a relatively wet blower, and for a while now I've been using the Falk Water trap in my pipe setup and it actually collects a TONNNNN of moisture without transferring it to my reeds. I don't typically play for hours on end, I'm still pretty new and my embouchure can't hold out for too long, but I've liked the Falk Water trap. I'm also using a Canmore Hybrid bag. You can't use it with the moose valve though. Hope that helps in some way.
                      Don't ask my neighbors about my piping skills. They don't know...

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